Guides

A tree becomes dangerous when a defect makes failure likely and something valuable is within reach. The warning signs to look for are large dead branches, cracks or splits in the trunk, mushrooms or conks at the base, cavities, a new or increasing lean, lifted soil, and damaged roots.

A tree that grew with a lean and has stable roots can often be kept, sometimes with crown reduction to take weight off the leaning side. A large tree whose lean is new, with root-plate movement, usually can't be saved and should be removed.

Get at least two written quotes. Verify liability and workers' compensation insurance directly with the insurer.

In everyday use there's no real difference. Most people and most tree companies use the words interchangeably.

In most cases, your own homeowners insurance pays for damage to your property from a falling tree, no matter whose tree it was. That's especially true when the fall is an "act of nature" like wind or ice.

Whether you need a tree removal permit depends on where you live; there's no national one. Common triggers are trunk size (often 6 to 24 inches in diameter), protected native species, trees in the street right-of-way, historic districts, and development projects.

Start with safety: treat every downed line as live, and look up for hanging branches before walking under trees. Then triage.

Prepare trees in the months before hurricane season (June 1 in the Atlantic): remove dead wood and hangers, have weak or decayed trees near the house assessed, and have dense crowns structurally pruned by a qualified arborist. Don't top trees or strip palms.

After a tree is removed, you're left with a stump cut a few inches above ground, the root system underground, and usually some lawn wear. Most people grind the stump, fill the hole with topsoil, and reseed or re-sod.